Hot! Ground spices can replace the whole ones in this no-vinegar blend. Mixed with soy sauce and honey, it makes a great dip for Chinese dumplings. Three or four tablespoons in a pound of ground meat or tuna, plus chopped mint, will make memorable burgers.

• 2 tablespoons mustard flour
• 1 tablespoon very cold water
• 3 tablespoons yellow mustard seed
• 3 tablespoons brown mustard seed
• 4 star anise or 1 teaspoon fennel seed or both
• 1 teaspoon whole cloves or allspice
• 1 teaspoon Szechuan peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon black peppercorns
• 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon fresh ginger, grated or minced
• 2/3 cup white wine or fresh-squeezed orange juice, or a mix of the two
• 2 tablespoons honey
• 1/2 teaspoon salt

In small bowl, combine mustard flour with water and set aside for 20 minutes.

Using a mortar and pestle or a clean coffee grinder, grind the seeds and dry spices together to moderate fineness. You’ll have about 3/4 cup. Sift out any big chunks. In a pint jar, combine this mixture with the remaining ingredients and the mustard paste, adding water if it’s too thick. Leave uncovered at room temperature for 3 hours to cure, then cover and refrigerate for at least a week. Yields about 1 pint.

-Joan Kocsis

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