Enigmatic Turnips

• 2 tablespoons neutral oil or ghee

• 1 tablespoon brown mustard seeds

• 2 serrano chiles (or to taste), seeded and minced

• 2 teaspoons sugar

• 1 pound turnips, any type, pared and cut into matchsticks

• kosher salt

• 1 lime

• 1/4 cup dried currants

• 1/4 cup minced cilantro leaves and stems

In a large heavy frying pan or wok over high heat, heat oil until wavy. Toss in the mustard seeds and cover with a lid as they pop. No more than 10 seconds later, stir in the chiles and sugar. Stir 5 to 10 seconds, then throw in the turnips. Stir fry for a few minutes, adding a very fat pinch of salt, until the turnips lose their raw flavor and are a bit wilted. Remove from heat and squeeze over lime juice, then stir in currants and cilantro. Just before serving, taste again for salt and sugar.

These are best warm or at room temperature.

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